Perfume trends and narratives
Unisex Perfumes
Archetype: the rebel, the revolutionary
These androgynous perfumes have been popular for quite a while now ever since Calvin Klein stepped out with his ground-breaking fragrance CK One back in 1994 when grunge subculture and diversity of gender was really starting to be experimented with. However, over the years, it has not just been Calvin Klein who has taken on this unique trend, but other leading brands such as Comme de Garcon with Pharrell Williams Girl, Lady Gaga's Eau de Gaga and Lamis who debuted the perfume 'Everyone', have also identified their fragrances with a narrative that surrounds the blurring of genders.
Referring back to the reigning brand for androgynous scents, Calvin Klein has done it again but this time with a fresh, contemporary extension on the theme called 'CK Two by Calvin Klein' which is aimed at the demographic millennial group and generation Z and Y. The authentic perfume reaches out to this younger audience and consumer base by aligning different cultural representatives and generating values of a youngster throughout their everyday life and communicating stories about what they may go through during their adolescence life and beyond. Therefore, the perfume communicates experiences of love, lust and friendship. This is represented throughout the advert campaign as we see four different types of couples which can be identified among the youth relationships in today's 21st century society. The couples included are from different ethnicities, sexualities, origins and then one image is of true friendship to demonstrate the different kinds of relationship shared between two people; males or females and the free spirit and diversity among individual's today. You can have a look at the campaign below!
CK Two by Calvin Klein 2015 advert
Lady Gaga Eau de Gaga
Pharell Williams Girl (Comme de Garcon)
Gothic Romance, The Dark Side
Archetype: the rebel, the fashionista
Many brands such as Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford have continued their dark narrative right through into 2016 but other brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo, who normally tend to use traditional feminine narratives, based on his two previously pink based products, has also adopted the mysterious concept for his communicative scent. If there's one thing all of these adverts have in common, it is the fact that each model is rocking a great deal of eyeliner which contrasts against their striking porcelain skin leaving them with a sensual gothic vampire look .
Yves Saint Laurent's Black Opium is among the selection of gothic and dark inspired perfumes which are trending at the moment. The flanker of the classic 1977 Opium signifies a glam rock aesthetic and the feeling of adrenaline which is arguably fuelled by the caffeine that is supplied through the note of coffee to kick-start an independent, edgy woman's night out and give her the energy to instantly seduce people with her scent.
Tom Ford's sensual Noir Pour Femme captures the true identity of a Tom Ford woman and the brand values they obtain. The fragrance is a paradox of the good and feminine side of a woman and the dark side which she keeps hidden away from the world. The perfume symbolises a juxtaposition of vulnerability and power but in a romantic alluring way. Furthermore, through this power there are arguably masculine elements within the fragrance but these are outweighed by the concoction of opulent floral and oriental notes to maintain the indulgence and sexuality that both Tom Fords scents and brand share.
As for Salvatore Ferragamo's Signorina Misteriosa, it is the complete opposite to it's sister scent and original perfume 'Signorina' as the new perfume combines sophistication and edge for an after hours aroma which is worn by those who are daring, outgoing and ready to show off their dark side.
Mythical Goddess'
Archetype: the hero, the ruler, the creator
Another trend which is becoming increasingly popular among high end brands since 2015 and is following us into 2016 is the trend of using mythical and historical goddess' to promote strength and dominance within the female gender identity. For instance, Versace, Bvlgari and Paco Rabbanne have released fragrances recently which take on this contextual narrative. Bvlgari's scent 'Goldea' has especially represented the theme of an assertive, high status woman with their use of 'dea' in the title which translated from Latin means 'goddess'. Furthermore, the packaging and design of the bottle symbolise the relationship that iconic goddess's such as Cleopatra have had with the colour gold and the motif of the snake.
As for Paco Rabbane the brand has communicated a narrative based on mythical goddesses in their new scent 'Olympea' by portraying the model standing on the top of Mount Olympus to evoke visions of power and strength but still sensuality and freshness to the brand.
Versace has furthered the Greek mythological theme with it's 'Eros' perfume which was launched back in Spring of 2015 but is still extremely popular. The design of the bottle even symbolises the face of mythological nemesis Medusa therefore, it has deeper reference to mythology and a different female identity which was also strong but in an evil and dark way adding a hint of wickedness to the story behind the fragrance.
Fashion Synergy
Archetype: the fashionista, the explorer, the creative
Moschino's newest fragrance 'Fresh' is a direct example of fashion synergy because not only does it combine an influence of Jeremy Scott's Spring Car Wash Couture SS16 collection but it also represents both high and low culture. This is demonstrated by the house cleaning product shaped bottle which contains a luxurious couture liquid. The luxurious liquid that is encapsulated in the flacon may signify the supreme status of the brand. However, the low cultured packaging signifies the brands values of taking something prestigious and mixing it with popular culture for a statement, bizarre and authentic effect that is sure not to be forgotten about for a long time.
Similarly to Moschino, Marc Jacob's has used the packaging of his perfume 'Decadence' to define a synergy between his distinctive personality influenced fragrances and his evening bag collection.
To read more about the narrative behind Decadence by Marc Jacobs, you can go to my blog post:
http://katefergvson.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/marc-jacobs-2015-fragrance-decadence.html
Delicate Florals
Archetype: the innocent, the sage, the caregiver
I don't know if I am the only one noticing this but nearly every single perfume that is taking over our department store shelves at the moment is either feminine, delicately floral based or fruity fresh!
Miss Dior is just one example of this but there are many more feminine liquidated scents floating about such as Valentina by Valentino and Elie Saab's Le Parfum.
Miss Dior represents both a bold and elegant woman in a timeless chic way. Romantic and natural, the perfume not only inspires a feminine identity but it also represents love which this woman is in search of and is able to lure men with her captivating yet playful charm.
Valentina Poudre Eau de Parfum by Valentino
This perfume represents natural beauty and simplicity which is symbolised by the minimalistic pale rose based bottle. On the subject of the bottle in my opinion, the moulded flacon resemble an abstract sculpture suggesting there could be some modernistic art inspiration or creative context behind the shaping of the bottle. However, back to the story behind the perfume, Valentina Poudre arguably signifies a feminine woman who adore sensual and indulgent things in life close to her skin such as fragrance which have the power to lure others in closer.
Not exactly the same edition of the perfume but both versions evoke the same olfactory messages and visual codes.
Other feminine perfumes on the market similar to these two:
Elie Saab Le Parfum
Bottega Veneta's Knot perfume
(Research: Courtesy of WGSN and Mintel)
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