However, one brand that was quite exceptional and certainly smoking tonight was Moschino, whose debut on the catwalk sparked an uproar of delight by arguably combining a vision of both fashion and performance (and even interior) to challenge the art of promoting ready to wear style in an unforgettable runway show which was filled with dancing and movement.
Carrying on with Moschino's epic brand values that mix luxury with popular culture, Jeremy Scott did not shy away from his current feature of graphic playful designs such as teddy bears and animated red lips throughout his clothing but surprisingly there were no Barbie, McDonalds or car wash references, it is the more serious dishevelled fashion towards the end of the show which I am more interested in and going to discuss tonight. At first these looks almost screamed Comme de Garcon in Paris 1981 but then the more you look at each model's attire, you start to get a feel for the deeper, rather disturbing and fiery (literally) narrative that is hidden behind Moschino's Fall 2016 show.
The reimagined Italian brand presented a Chandelier motif gown that spiritually left us with conceptualised thoughts of Lumiere from 'The Beauty and the Beast' and attires which looked as if Jeremy Scott had set them alight himself just before the anticipated show. This was because even one of his gowns was followed down the runway by a heap of smoke that clung onto the char burn
marks for dear life to represent burning pieces of art and beautiful couture. Hopefully there weren't too many asthma sufferer's on the front row....
As for the narrative for this expressive runway show, Jeremy Scott wanted to communicate a story that was based on the Dominican Monks of the 15th century, during the Renaissance, who had notably led a group of activists through the streets of Florence causing mass destruction on the city by burning interiors, clothing and many objects in sight. However, Scott has taken this historical Italian moment and turned it into a theatrical display of war with an element of self expression on the designer's behalf to allow Scott to combine his visually kitsch style with a deep context of the city of Florence and Italian heritage.
When it was Anne Cleveland's turn to strut down the runway, she surprised the crowd of fashion observers by not exactly walking but elegantly dancing with a cloud of travelling smoke around her whilst wearing a royal blue full skirt cocktail dress which was just as purposely ruine as the rest of Jeremy Scott's collection.
Similarly to Moschinos 'Fresh' fragrance for 2015, this collection also had us wondering what Jeremy Scott's challenging contemporary narratives intend to represent apart from the revolution of popular culture and the synergy of high and low lifestyles but somehow, it seems to work so well and leave his viewers wanting more and more from the weirdly wonderful brand.
(Images: courtesy of Vogue)
Anne Cleveland's debut down the runway
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