BBC Perfume Episode 1 (the documentary)

Not only does a fragrance have the power to make a person smell good but it is also has the ability to channel our feelings, emotions and memories leaving an everlasting sensuality. Whilst it continues to manipulate one of our five senses; smell, the production of perfume has become one of the biggest multi-dollar global industries today and carries on to grow with in the market as we speak. (or type in this case) Macy's fragrance department in the 34th Avenue store in Manhattan, New York is the biggest scent retailer in the western world and one that continues to sell hundreds of leading designer house fragrances such as Chanel, Dior and Marc Jacobs on a daily basis. The Manhattan department store is known to be one of the destinations where scent dreams really do come alive.


Furthermore, it is also found that there are over 1200 launches for perfumes in one year as the industry has to keep up with demand, current trends and allow themselves to stand out from the crowd in order to maintain customer loyalty and longevity. Therefore, this is another reason why the industry has increasingly projected itself onto new levels within the past decade. Adding on, the market is arguably one of the most accessible markets to those from both high and low culture as it allows the masses to still feel the luxury of Chanel or Gucci but through scent.


Recently I watched the BBC Four documentary 'Perfume' which looked into the fragrance market, the process of making a perfume, how the ingredients are chosen and what the end result looks like. In the first episode of the three part documentary, the programme focused on the creation of the male and female perfume 'Loud' for Tommy Hilfiger which was brought together by the company, Estee Lauder. The documentary also followed the fragrance house 'Guerlain' which dates all the way back to 1828 and continue to sell perfumes today. On the topic of Guerlain, the documentary mainly focuses on the brand values that have been followed by perfumer, Jean-Paul Guerlain for many decades. However, it then looks at the appointment of Thierry Wasser who took over Guerlain after Jean-Paul, and took it upon himself to make his own fresh adaptation of the classic brand fragrance, Shalimer.

Estee Lauder design for Tommy Hilfiger's 'Loud' Perfume
During the documentary, we see footage of the proposal design and creation of the 2010 perfume 'Loud' forTommy Hilfiger which set out to target 'Generation Y' consisting of a creative customer between 18-27. The aim of the perfume was to combine fragrance and music to develop a liquid rock n roll. The liquid rock and roll scent, which was formularised by young music lovers and perfumers, Aurelien Guichard and Yann Vasnier consisted of the universal juices; rose and patchouli for a soft juxtaposition of nature and rock n roll edge to communicate to a youthful, experimental target consumer.
The estimated $45 million fragrance truly represents scent and sound mixed.


As for the packaging of the perfume which is possibly one of the main attractions of the whole sale, consisted of a flacon which was designed to replicate a retro LP vinyl record and came in two different colours of magenta pink and transparent black indicating the different sexes and representing the signature colour theme for the advertisement in Hilfiger's Denim line in 2010. Furthermore, the box that the perfume is packaged in, resembles a sleeve of a vinyl which the bottle can slip in and out of side ways to unify the perfume with the fashion of old school music packaging.


The commercial advertisement for the perfume included the noughties indie band 'The Ting Ting's' and rock aristocracy models, Daisy Lowe and Josh Beech for the ultimate music scene and to reach out to the IPod obsessed youth culture.


Overall, I really liked the idea of this perfume and the theme of rock n roll however, I did not feel that it fitted the brand identity of Tommy Hilfiger too well. If I were to reassign the 'Loud' perfume to a different brand, I would have either chosen Diesel or Jean Paul Gaultier as I feel as brands, they communicate values that are based on edginess, modernity and rock star identity unlike Tommy Hilfiger which to me, appeals more to a preppy classic American target consumer.
To watch the advert campaign, follow this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq02Ken8EDc






Guerlain Perfume House
Founded by Pierre François Pascal Guerlain, Guerlain's perfumes are traditional, grand and made from ancient recipes that have been around for 188 years dating all the way back to 1828 and have been passed down from generation to generation. Guerlain perfumes have been known to have power and statement whilst representing true frenchness so effortlessly.

During the documentary, Jean Paul Guerlain recalls his very first fragrance he ever smelt at the age of three in 1941 when he received his third birthday cake which was a strawberry tart, leaving an aroma of fresh berries and sweetness with him for the rest of his life.

One of Guerlain's most famous and original perfumes, Shalimar which is known as the crown jewel of the company, is still made from the same recipe that was put together by Jacque Guerlain in the 20's. One of the ingredients which is used is iris oil which costs approximately £13,000 a kilo and is the most difficult scent to be extracted from nature. However, it is the key to the aroma that makes Guerlain as successful as it was 91 years ago when Jacque Guerlain put the recipe together.  Furthermore, every Guerlain perfume that is created, contains its own secret ingredient called the 'Guerlinade' to authenticate each perfume from other competing luxury brands.

Shalimar (the original)

Thierry Wasser's 'Shalimer Initial'
In 2010, Thierry Wasser became the first successor to Guerlain who was not actually part of the Guerlain family tree or the bloodline. Although, he still had to celebrate the influence of the 19th century which previous generations have valued throughout their Guerlain reign, as the new perfumer for Guerlain, Wasser intended to put his own 21st century twist on the brand. Therefore, during the documentary and to make his own mark on the brand, Wasser made his own version of the legendary scent 'Shalimer', but one that would cater for a younger female consumer to keep up with the ever-changing market.

'Shalimer Initial' still continues to capsulate the heritage and traditions of a Guerlain perfume, however, with Wasser's twist, the scent is a lot more gentle, youthful and fresh to captivate a new modern emotion for the perfume brand. The recipe of Shalimar Initial is made up of rose, iris oil, vanilla, tonka bean and a pinch of 'Guerlinade' to identify the scent as a Guerlain. Therefore, Wasser has maintained Shalimar's key ingredient of Iris oil and Guerlinade but he has experimented with floral tones to create a new concoction of a sensual and luminous odour for a delicate and feminine younger woman in contrast to Shalimar's previous target consumer who was sophisticated and mature.