Carrying on with my research for a gap in the market in the fragrance industry, I thought a really good way of finding out what is exactly in the industry at the moment and what is not, would be to actually go out and have a look around a few stores in Nottingham and London and see what they have to offer. Also along the way we were looking for potential competition, how different market level brands were channelling the same ideas and mainly the products that were already being promoted.
The Classic
John Lewis
To start off our research, me and my teammates took a trip to John Lewis where we visited the Chanel counter to find out more about the iconic brand's classic scents. We looked at the classic Chanel No.5 and found out after nearly 97 years it is still Chanel's most popular and sold perfume across the brand. Something I found really interesting was the fact that No.5's target customer is predominantly of an older woman who has remained loyal towards the brand throughout their life and is not likely to ever change because this perfume is so traditional and reflects their values as a woman in the 20th century. However, although this is great for sales and the brand's longevity this perfume can be passed down from generation to generation as it captivates heritage and class. One think I found extremely heart-breaking was that many store assistants find that a lot of the people who view this perfume are elderly men who visit the store to remember the scent of their deceased wife as the smell transports them back to a time of happiness, love and comfort.
However, Chanel No.5 also represents a shift in the 20's and the emancipation of women who were gaining independence, getting the vote, smoking in public and wearing trousers. Therefore, women were moving from tradition to modern day values. As for the packaging of the bottle, it is quite minimalistic, boyish and androgynous, reflecting the values of women at the time.
The second perfume we viewed was Chance by Chanel which is known as the 'flanker' of Chanel's many perfumes because of it's four different scents which all go by the same name of Chance. Interestingly in terms of the story behind the shaping of the bottle, we found out that the silhouette of the Chance flacon is in fact shaped like a diamond ring to symbolise the luxuries and the possibilities of the next chapter in a person's life which could come from taking that chance. Furthermore, the perfume represents a whirlwind of happiness, fantasy and the unpredictability of life and is also an olfactory representation of the chances Coco Chanel took in her life which allowed her to become one of the greatest women in fashion of all time.
Game of Chance
The Chanel counter also had miniature spraying cards which were called 'Game of Chance' cards to further the theme of unpredictability of taking that chance in a game or in life for that matter. It also kind of reminded me of the television show 'Game of Thrones' therefore, Chanel could arguably be trying to connect with a customer who is fond of this popular culture television series which has been promoted quite frequently within the media. Therefore, it may provide their fragrance with more publicity and towards a modern audience who is up to date with current affairs unlike their No.5 customers who buy the perfume for its classic commodity.
Game= sports, board games, competition, success....
Coco Mademoiselle was the final perfume that we researched in store and although it represents a very different brand value to No.5 it was found that it is still purchased by customers of all ages from teenagers to middle aged woman do to this loyalty that older women have towards the brand. However, the younger consumers who do purchase this scent buy the perfume because it is a modern classic which symbolises the youthful independent side of Gabrielle Chanel. We also found out that the perfume took an astonishing thirteen years to create to avoid any chance of failure of sale up against No.5.
Au Naturale
Lush
One of my favourite brands for scented ingredients is Lush. Therefore, I thought this was a must visit on our search around Nottingham. We immediately went over to the Perfume section of the shop where we found a selection of scented fragrances which reflected the brand values of the store. As a brand, Lush also stress the importance of including natural ingredients and safe synthetics in their fragrances which they purchase from non animal testing suppliers. They also make it extremely clear that they do not test on animals either. Furthermore, their bottles and flacons are 100% bio-degradable and are made out of potato starch. Therefore, in terms of packaging Lush are extremely unique with their environmentally friendly way off visually displaying their brand values.
As for the layout of the store, it almost looked like the cupboard of a professor's science lab which contained all of his crazy mixtures and components for a concoction.
High Street vs High End: As for the design of the bottles, they are playful, modern and kind of resemble a cartoon sketch in a comic book to communicate to an audience who likes quirky and fun scented products and merchandise. I don't know about you but these bottles look very similar to Moschino's Fresh fragrance which also debuted in 2015. Both brands are playing around with the concept of low cultured products to adapt their new fragrance to a wider market.
Lush' Gorilla Perfume Gallery on Oxford Street London
In true comic book style and storytelling, Lush has recently opened up a Gorilla perfume Gallery on Oxford Street in London which contains a collaborative art installation to put a creative spin on their usual in store retail set up and visual displays. The gallery is subject to Lush's popular Gorilla Perfumes fragrances: The Smell of Freedom and The Sun and is open until the 24th March. I thought this was a really cool idea because Lush has been known primarily for their skin and bath products however, by moving into the fragrance market more predominantly they have managed to secure a new consumer who is interested in safe synthetic and natural ingredient perfumes.
Contrasting Perfumes
Zara- Day and Night Perfumes. 12.00AM Sunday Morning and 9:00PM Friday Night
You may see me discuss an idea in a few days that was formed from seeing this set of perfumes in Zara's store in Nottingham and I will post the blog link to this page as soon as it is up.
I really liked the idea of perfumes that catered for either day or night because I am aware that many people do actually wear different scents according to the occasion they are attending or the time of the day. I especially found this out during my recent consumer research survey that '69 out of 100' do alter their scent to the specific time of day and whether they are going somewhere dressy or casual. Many people tend to opt for a subtler scent during the day whereas their night scent is a lot more dramatic, intense and indulgent. Here is a bit more information I found out about Zara's contrasting fragrances...
9:00PM Friday Night
Top note: orange blossom
Middle notes: magnolia petals and heliotrope
Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean and musk.
For a sensual, mysterious after hours scent targeted at a woman who is charming and out to have a good time.
12:00AM Sunday Morning
Top notes: bergamot, pear and black currant
Middle notes: rose, orange blossom and iris
Base note: sandalwood.
For a woody, delicate Sunday morning scent.
(images: courtesy of Zara online)
The White Company
However, Zara was not the only brand that we found to be promoting a contrasting trend within perfume as 'The White Company' also had two specific scents called 'Noir' and 'Blanc' and their own version of 'Day' and 'Night' scents. Take a look below.
The White Company 'Day' and 'Night' scents
The White Company 'Blanc' and Noir' scents
Primark
Although Primark could probably never compete with the likes of Chanel something I found very interesting was the fact that 'P.S Love' by the brand had an extreme resemblance to the flanker fragrance 'Chance' by Chanel! What do you think?
Chance by Chanel P.S Love by Primark
Next and the Body Shop
Whilst we looked around Next and the Body Shop we started to realise that one recurring trend between high street and high end brands lately, is the promotion of Floral scents. We noticed that both of these brands were heavily trying to push the trend within store. Whether this was because it is nearly Mother's Day or because the trend is so popular, in my opinion I feel that the overload of florals is starting to become a bit outdated and boring. What do you think?
(Next fragrance section)
(The body shop window display in Nottingham)
Alien by Thierry Mugler Refill station
Something else I found really innovative whilst we were doing research around Nottingham was the Thierry Mugler refilling stations which the brand have created for their perfumes Angel and Alien. These refilling stations are located in various department and fragrance stores.
The idea is unique, environmentally friendly and means that a consumer can recycle their bottle instead of buying a new one to reuse the material and to conserve raw materials and resources that these bottles are made from.
Refill stations can inspire retailer loyalty
'A third of those who buy BPC products are
interested in saving money by buying refills, increasing to 40% of women who
have larger beauty purchase repertoires and are most likely to visit stores.
BPC brands can introduce refill stations for products, such as shampoo and
shower gel, for a set monthly fee to ensure loyalty.'
Source: Mintel, The Savvy Beauty Consumer - UK - November 2015, The Consumer- what you need to knowCreative Concept:
Artistic shaping and design of perfume bottles
Modernistic designs: I have included a few branded perfume bottles which I found on my visit to Harrods over the weekend which I found were the most innovative, creative and cool. See if you agree with me!
My favourite finds: I chose these perfume bottles because they were far from average and as a consumer myself, they were the types of designs I would find myself purchasing just because of the shaping of the bottle before actually smelling the scent.
Bond No.9
Miu Miu's first fragrance
Missoni
Valentina Poudre by Valentino
Bvlgari Le Gemme
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