Thursday 4 February 2016

Design in a Nutshell: Modernism

As for my next study of the creative movements that have affected the design industry, I wanted to discuss modernism. Modernism may be very subjective and could be categorised under the development of style in the 60's when the Mods took over and a style I discuss many posts ago in 'Mod Monochrome'. However, in this post I wanted to directly talk about Modernism during the post-World War One era in the 20th century when the world was traumatised from the effects of fighting and wanted a change to forget the past. Modernism was a creative movement that quickly spread across the world; from Britain to Spain, France and America and carried on throughout the 20th century even after WWII.
Modernist artists such as Picasso, Dali and Escher started to look at the world differently by exploring different art concepts such as abstract, Cubism, symbolism, expressionism and futurism with the intention of crafting together a new society through the use of architecture. Concrete, glass and steel featured quite frequently within the works of various modernist artists to support their forward thinking ideas as the concept of 'Less is more' was starting to be adapted and popularised. However, not everything that artists designed were a success, for instance, the idea of Georgii Krutikov, a Russian inventor, was the suggestion of a city which would be held up by electrical currents which was guaranteed to be impossible during these early stages of modernism, when Stalin's Five Year Plan was taking place and at a time when there was barely enough electricity to keep lights switched on. However, although 88 years later, the idea has never happened, this new wave of ideas for the future demonstrated that people were moving forward in terms of creativity and technology. Therefore, this allowed modernism to still become one of the single most influential movements of all-time.

Georgii Krutikov
Georgii Krutikov, 1927
'The Flying City'
In 1928 Krutikov took the idea of modernism to another level with his proposal of the idea of mobile architecture, which consisted of a city which would levitate from the ground through electricity. Arguably, it was Krutikov's fascination with movement and flexibility which fuelled this crazy idea as he was determined to prove the physical possibility that architecture could be projected from the ground. Therefore, he wanted to create something extremely different to the expected static formation that all architectures were known to be and move forward drastically with the functions of buildings.
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Georgii Krutikov's illustration of the Flying City in 1928

Influential Modernists (who also shared ideas of abstract art)
The Modernist movement did not just occur in art but it also had an effect on music, dance, fashion, film, photography, books and graphic design.
John Cage (musician)

John Cage was an American composer, music theorist, writer, and artist who was a key component in bringing avant-garde music to the 20th century after the second world war. He was also known to have been influential with introducing modern dance to society due to his close relationship with choreographer, Merce Cunningham. Some of Cage's most famous work consisted of his 1952 composition of '4'33' and 'Sonata and Interludes in 1946-48.
Merce Cunningham (Dance)
Cunningham, Merce
Merce Cunningham in 1967 for 'Gateway'.
Merce Cunningham was a choreographer in the 20th century who arguably brought modern dance into the lives of individuals and changed the landscape of performance forever. Many of his works have been associated with Dadaist, Surrealist, and Existentialist motifs which arguably influenced some of his most famous dance choreographies which were 'Sixteen Dances for Soloist and Company of Three' (1951) and 'Suite by Chance' (1952).
Pablo Picasso (artist)
Pablo Picasso, a painter and sculptor who was from Málaga, Spai, was possibly one of the most famous artists to ever exist in history and still to this day, in terms of arts movements. He took the lead in modern art with his abstract and cubist ways of communicating art which can be seen in the paintings 'Three Musician' (1921), Girl Before a Mirror (1932), 'Weeping Woman'(1937) and Guernica (1937) which was known as one of the most powerful and moving anti-war paintings to ever be created.
'Weeping Woman' 1937

Guernica (1937)
Charles and Ray Eames (designers)
Charles and Ray Eames were a couple who worked as American designers during the 20th century and contributed to the modernist movement through architecture, furniture, graphic design and film. One of their most famous designs was the Eames Lounge Chair in 1956 for the Herman Miller furniture company. However, furthering their artistic skills, they both had an early interest in painting although their styles completely differed; Charles preferred to use watercolour to create a loose and delicate communication of exotic Mexican architectures whereas Ray channelled her creativity through abstract and expressive art.




The Eames Lounge Chair and Ottoman


Case Study House 8: The Eames House 1949
The aim of these houses was to express 'a man's life in the modern world'. The homes that were created by the couple were built and furnished using material and techniques that were derived from the experiences of WWII. They wanted a home that would make no demands for itself, and would serve as an abode for “life in work,” with nature as a “shock absorber”. The couple's target home owners were artistic parents whose children had moved out.

The work Charles and Ray created separately:
Charles Eames' Mexican Watercolours 1933-1936

Ray Eames' fashion drawings 1933-1936
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Ray Eames enjoyed creating paper dolls and accompanied them with their own wardrobe of clothes to mix and match.
Ray Eames NYC 1930-1936
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Ray Eames was also a founding member of American Abstract Artists, whilst she spent her days painting with fellow abstract expressionist artists such as Hans Hoffman, Lee Krasner and Mercedes Matter.
Artists who have influenced fashion designers
Although the modernist movement has continued to influence the way we look at the creative industry today, there has also been many artists throughout history who have also inspired the designs of many leading fashion houses.
Van Gogh and Rodarte
The post-impressionist artist can be seen to have had influence on Rodarte's Spring/Summer 2012 collection as sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy created a homage of dresses that were devoted to the spiritual and natural spring colour palette and the array of summer flowers in Van Gogh's paintings. Thee sisters even translated his powerful brush strokes onto the fabrics in awe of his most famous paintings.


Rodarte's Spring 2012 collection

Salvador Dali and Elsa Shiaparelli
Surrealist artist, Salvador Dali and Elsa Shiaparelli were both known for their bold dream like and whimsical approaches to their creative work. Therefore, their collaborations throughout 1937-38 were no surprise at all to the creative industry. The duo created three iconic garments consisting of a lobster themed dress, a shoe hat and the tear dress which had tears and rips graphically imposed onto the fabric to create a disturbing illusion.

Paris, France. February 1937
Hat

The Shoe Hat, winter 1937–38

Evening Ensemble, Paris, France. February 1938
Piet Mondrian and Yves Saint Laurent
In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent designed a shift dress based on the primary coloured abstract, grid print paintings by the Dutch artist, Piet Mondarian. The designer translated these block coloured asymmetric paintings into dresses to fit the mod monochrome trend of the 60's.
The Yves Saint Laurent
The Mondrian Dress by Yves Saint Laurent, 1965


Andy Warhol and Versace
Gianni Versace's Spring/Summer collection in 1991 took pop culture to the next level by using Andy Warhol's iconic Marilyn Monroe and James Dean pop art paintings within the design of one of his body con ankle length dresses for the collection. Versace combined the bright, flamboyant hues of Warhol's work to communicate a confident and colourful aesthetic for the fashion of the 90's.
Evening dress


Gianni Versace's Spring 1991 collection


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