Oscar De La Renta
For Oscar De La Renta's Pre Fall collection, creative director Peter Copping wanted to add an American flare to his designs to represent the New York City based company and the place he now lives, even though he was originally born in Oxford in England.
“I wanted the collection to look like a patchwork, a rich mix, because that’s what I find America to be,” the designer said when discussing his inspiration for the new collection.
Furthermore, although the fashions of names like Grace Kelly, Madonna and Marilyn Monroe all influenced Copping's designs, he still made sure that each garment had their own modernised 'Oscar De La Renta twist' to stay true to the brand identity created by Oscar himself.
The colour palette for the collection consisted of deep wine reds, butter yellows, blossom pinks and oranges to compliment the bright blooming winter floral prints used for certain skirts or dresses. The designer even spiced some garments up with innocent embellishment details and chiffon fabrics. However, not everything was so pretty and pure about the collection, as the designer paired certain outfits with contrasting jet black long gloves and chunky black belts for a cooler and edgier look.
Marilyn Monroe in the 1953 film 'Gentleman Prefer Blondes'.
Madonna at the 1991 Academy Awards.
Alexander Wang
Since Alexander Wang left Balengiaca early this year, he has been trying to determine what his own brand identity is and what he intends to represent with each collection, in terms of his narratives and attitudes. As for this Pre Fall collection, there was a mixture of themes presenting Wang's brand values such as the rise of a gender clash in fashion, an influence of his own personal style and a sense of irony among his selected outfits. In terms of this tension between genders, Wang has included what seemed like feminine silhouettes however, the cuts of these silhouettes were actually identifiable as fashions that men would wear coinciding with the theme of irony. Furthermore, Wang did not want to create separate feminine and masculine clothing, therefore, by mixing the two genders he reaches out to a cultural diverse audience. As for his own personal style, the collection is filled with pieces based on Wang's own dress sense and the way his friends dress, projecting a dark street wise style in a sophisticated way among his brand. Also to further expand on this sense of irony, Wang has attempted to mix high culture and low culture in fashion by pairing everyday garments such as t-shirts and jeans with rich textured pieces such as luxurious handbags and multi-dollar platform heels to communicate the message that a casual meets status trend can exist in high fashion.
McQ Alexander McQueen
If there's one thing that creative director, Sarah Burton manages to effortlessly pull off at Alexander McQueen, it is taking that London Goth trend and romanticising it with an outstanding sleek, contemporary revitalisation that we are never disappointed with. For this Pre Fall collection, Burton has layered tailored pin striped shirts with black leather maxi pinafores to create the ultimate monochrome unorthodox school uniform to regurgitate that image of a rebellious yet fashion conscious teenager frustrated with social conformities in today's society. Furthermore, Burton has certainly not shied away from McQueen's desirable signature use of punk influenced tartan fabrics and delicate black lace to maintain that thrilling and original edge that Alexander McQueen himself, always aspired to achieve. McQueen's collection was also inspired by the Riot Grrls, Teddy Boys and unexpectedly, the Masai tribe to further develop an image of a restless youth subculture who had attitude and confidence.
Masai Tribe
www.trekkingadventures.co.nz
The long draped silhouettes of the Masai garments were one of the subjects for inspiration Burton's Pre Fall 2016 collection for Alexander McQueen.
Nicole Miller
There was something this December about Nicole Miller's collection that shouted 'material girl meets Vivienne Westwood punk glam meets an illusion of bohemian floral' taking over her Pre Fall extravaganza. Miller debuted her own response to the tartan trend with a cooler, modern and crafty abstract approach that was topped off with fun electrifying hues to channel a harmless acid grunge look. There was even an unconventional militaristic element to the collection as the designer paired camouflage prints with block colours, metallic's and embellishment. Then if that use of pattern wasn't enough, Miller daringly went to the next extreme by experimenting with winter floral's but this time, to create a sweet tailored yet feminine look. Even the flooring has the same flower print as multiple pieces from her collection to attract her consumers towards the bold pattern.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham's Pre Fall 2016 collection was all about jewel toned layers with strong tailoring this December. The designer even expressed that she wanted to create something that was functional and comfortable for her customers, so they could mix and match these timeless pieces in their own way, whilst still adding a burst of bold colour to their outfit. From day wear to evening attire, each piece is alternative and can be dressed for any occasion as well as acting as that perfect go to piece for those 'nothing to wear' days. And I can guarantee as a girl studying fashion, we have all had one of those!
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