The Forgotten designer responsible for some of fashion's biggest trends: Claire McCardell

Ever since I started my university course back in September I have become so much more aware of the many designers who have paved the fashion landscape within the industry for us, dating back to the beginning of the 1900's. One designer who I have recently came across whilst reading the book, 'Icons of Fashion' was the 1930's American fashion designer, Claire McCardell who was one of the front runners in introducing the female gender to the modern bodysuit and bathing suit.


Time Magazine in 1955

McCardell's inspiration stemmed from the works of Vionnet and Chanel which was influenced whilst she was studying in Paris in 1926. One aim that McCardell had during her time as a fashion designer was to create clothing that would match her own lifestyle, much as Chanel did in order to represent the new woman of the century.

“I’ve always designed things I needed myself. It just turns out that other people need them too.”  Quote taken from McCardell in an interview with Time magazine.

Alongside her creations which redefined women's holiday fashion, McCardell also dabbled in the area of Ready to Wear where she was known to have designed garments such as the 'Monastic' dress which helped establish her as one of the initiators of the 'American' look. Her materials of choice were provided by the mills associated with Galey and Lord and consisted of wool jersey and cotton calico which offered simplicity to her direct designs. Therefore, this specific Monastic dress that McCardell created in 1938 consisted of a design which was far from traditional, unlined and a straight cut silhouette to reflect the ever changing attitudes of women in the mid 20th century. The Monastic dress took on its complete silhouette when it was simply belted at the waist to emphasise the wearer's hips and body shape.


"Claire could take five dollars' worth of common cotton calico and turn out a dress that a smart woman could wear anywhere"- Norman Norell
 

Since it was a key aesthetic of McCardell to emphasise the female figure, it is no surprise that in 1943 she created the 'Diaper' bathing and beach suit. This creation was a forerunner of the modern bodysuit which then spiralled off into the introduction of leotards as fashion garments instead of their usual wear which was primarily for dance and sport. McCardell made leotards in the form of skin tight, full-length, jersey bodysuits and to be worn under long skirts for any type of occasion.



Adding onto the theme of holiday clothing, McCardell also made a 'Popover' dress in 1942 which became a basic in all of her design collections. The Popover dress consisted of a design which was a beach playsuit with bloomer legs. Although the dress was designed for casual daywear, the style of the garment still appears quite smart and sophisticated for a feminine woman.