Sunday, 10 January 2016

Historical Icons of Fashion

Fashion is something that has surrounded us for as long as people have existed, from the self-made attires of animal skin that were hunted and skimmed by cavemen, to the white linens used by the Egyptians to keep cool under the scorching ancient sun. Then fast forward thousands of years later to a society where fashion not only signifies your identity but arguably controls people's lives and careers in this style conscious contemporary 21st century. However, along the way, many fashion icons have been born and passed but still to this day there are a few who will forever take to the stand as some of the most influential individuals that there has ever and will ever be in fashion. Here are just a few icons whose legacies have contributed to the history of fashion in my eyes.

Marie Antoinette (1755-1793)
As the end of the 17th century approached, and the 18th century was just round the corner, a cultural shift moving from Versailles to Paris started to commence, where art and fashion were beginning to be a lot more influential over the aristocracy and elite groups of the French society. Therefore, after further growth of style and on-going experimentation, during the middle of the period, the fashion identity of Marie Antoinette was born and would not be forgotten for a long time afterward.
Marie Antoinette's was known for her scandalous ways, her contribution to the downfall of French monarchy and her iconic and ignorant phrase to 'let them eat cake' in regards to the hungry peasants who did not have food to eat. However, in terms of her fashion taste, the Queen of French style wore richly decorated and colourful gowns in an iconic way to depict an image of elegance, femininity and beauty. Her rebellious and big spender attitude arguably fuelled her free, sumptuous garment choices styled by Rose Bertin, the French revolutions answer to Coco Chanel and is a style that has been embodied throughout many editorials and film adaptations ever since.

gg2p Marie Antoinette, Queen of Fashion   Marie Antoinette by Joseph Ducreux
Marie Antoinette by Joseph Ducreux 

Portrait of Marie Antoinette by Martin van Mytens 1767-1768

Kirsten Dunst as Marie Antoinette in Vogue's September 2006 issue photographed by Annie Leibovitz

Harpers Bazaar September 2015: Icons by Carine Roitfeld and Jean-Paul Goude
Mariah Carey as Marie Antoinette

Joan of Arc (1412-1431)
Known for her heroic actions, Joan of Arc has arguably been classified as one of the most influential and inspirational icons of fashion in the sphere of history, politics and culture still to this day. Many fashion editorials and campaigns have embodied her confident character in their narratives, to demonstrate a vision of a strong, independent and free woman who is dressed in metal chains and gleaming armour to signify Joan's historical attire.


"Individuality makes an icon. Joan of Arc inspires me because she fought against society's constraints. She went against the grain." Jessica Chastain
"Individuality makes an icon. Joan of Arc inspires me because she fought against society's constraints. She went against the grain."
Balenciaga dress, Alexander Wang socks and shoes, Fannie Schiavoni gloves
Harpers Bazaar September 2015: Icons by Carine Roitfeld and Jean-Paul Goude
Jessica Chastain as Joan of Arc


Marlies Dekker's Fall Winter 2014 couture collection


Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra (1963 film)
So this is not exactly one person, but a role instead. Arguably, two people to be specific. Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra in the 1963 adaptation portrayed the legacy of the last Egyptian pharaoh before Egypt was annexed by Octavian and the Roman Empire. As for her fashion in the film, Cleopatra was known for her seductive yet style conscious sense of fashion, which normally consisted of a combination of Greek and Egyptian attires to mix and individualise her style.  During the film, there were 65 different costume changes, and with no surprise at all, the film won an Oscar for the Best Costume Design but can you blame them after showcasing a serious amount of shimmering, metallic fabricated dresses adorned with heavy jewels to translate the eccentric style of the elegant pharaoh. The pair (Cleopatra and Elizabeth Taylor) were both known for their love of strong perfume and it can even be argued that Cleopatra actually invented the smoky eye trend which was layered with thick strokes of eyeliner and her iconic blue/green eye shadow for a powerful yet modern look.

 La fille de paille:




Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra in the 1963 film (All above)

 
Grace Kelly (1929-1982)
Popular in the 1950's for her beauty and extraordinary life, the actress turned real life princess of Monaco had one of the most amazing wardrobes in the 20th century. Although her identity was defined through the art of film, on our screens, her audience anticipated to see what glamorous, classic gowns the sophisticated Kelly would model for her roles as 'the girl next door' siren sort of character. Outside of the film industry, Kelly cultivated the 'Grace Kelly look' and became one of the leaders for American fashion during this era (alongside Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe of course) and towards the 60s and 70's as garment silhouettes began to change, Kelly's impressive style fitted with the flow of change to modernise yet maintain her traditional, majestic look.  Her style is still one that is identifiable almost thirty years after her shocking death and is one that will continue to be admired due to her legacy, especially for those who are nostalgic over the fifties.

 
 
Notorious (1946)



To Catch a Thief (1955)


Grace Kelly wearing her 1955 Oscar's dress
 
High Society (1956)
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