Recently on a university trip to London, I got the chance to go and visit 'The Vulgar' exhibition on at the Barbican. Since I am extremely interested in any sort of diverse and rebellious fashion, this exhibition was a dream for me to go and visit because it allowed me to view a range of high end designs from across the ages; starting from the 1800's all the way to present day, whilst understanding the social and cultural influences that go into the creation of such idiosyncratic and outrageous fashion. I am also a great fan of historical fashion, therefore, to see how different designs can be past down, twisted and mixed with to create something to fit with the current or past day and age was mesmerising to me. Therefore, it was really great to see how designer's can use certain designs of garments to react to the specific unrest or downfalls in society to unfold something revolutionary and project their voice through garment to make a statement.
‘Vulgarity exposes the scandal of good taste’ Adam Phillips
Across the exhibition there was an array of creations including the works of some of my most favourite designers including Vivienne Westwood (the queen of rebellious fashion with an elegant twist), Christian Lacroix, John Galliano, Mary Katranzou and Pam Hogg. One aspect of the exhibition that I liked the most, was the idea that it allowed the viewers to interpret their own thoughts and approaches to the word 'vulgar' and to challenge our own tastes in fashion. Potent, provocative or utterly shocking, each outstanding piece, unravelled a story to understand each notion of vulgarity, whilst showcasing the territory it holds over ready-to-wear or couture fashion. i found this so important, because similarly to many other trends that we follow, clothing can project our identities in a revolutionary and ground-breaking way to project our views on the current state of society. Therefore, to analyse how designer's do this is great creative inspiration for when i am looking at how other ideas in the future can be projected through garment and accessory.
To conclude this post, I thought I would share with you a few of my favourite pieces from the exhibition and a little bit about what I thought of them!
Mary Katrantzou's Pencil Skirt A/W 2012-2013
Could you find a piece that literally denoted the meaning of a pencil skirt any better than actually using real pencils?
Possibly one of the most iconic and inventive approaches to a basic garment, Katrantzou wowed with this creative masterpiece which offered a sense of playfulness, flamboyancy and youth. Renowned for her intoxicating creations, the designer combined surrealism with a sustainable fusion of style to address the ongoing issues of man vs nature whilst drawing parallels between the serial repetitions of nature and the take over of industrial mass production of our society. Although some may argue the collection and this piece was too literal, I loved the abstract element it offered in order to define socio-economical and environmental issues that effect the world we live in now.
Pam Hogg's Lawless Collection SS 2016
An outrageous piece, this garment by Hogg showcases a cocktail of different themes including futurism, bodily exposure and undertones of the 21st century cowboy to communicate a narrative based on the modern renegade. Reflecting her rebellious attitude, the designer strayed from any sort of conventions by using an array of studding, sheer materials and metallic spikes reflecting a playful unruliness and a nod towards an anti-establishment and arguably anti-trend kind of aesthetic.
Gareth Pugh SS 2016
Out of all of the pieces I viewed at the exhibition, this definitely stuck out for me! Not only was I amazed at how Pugh had managed to use the motif of a clown in such a serious and artistic way but I was also intrigued by his use of materials. The piece, worn by the model, has been primarily crafted from an array of bronze one pence to communicate a garment filled with energy, illusion and opulent textures. Arguably, although the garment visually communicates the idea of opulence, i thought it was ironic because the one pence coin does not really showcase reality or significance in terms in economics however, through the cut out silhouette and striking exposure of skin, I thought that this lessened the lavish aesthetic in order to really communicate something vulgar and sexual.
